87.9 km; 4hr 10min; (21.1km/h) Temples 32-36
This was another amazing day on the road. Wake up around 6am from the idyllic camping spot and make the short journey up to temple 32. Another henro is stirring from his shelter below the temple. Generally retired folk will be staying in minshuku and shukubo, but younger henro are camping or sleeping out in the open every night of their pilgrimage. Its very accepted here and as long as you set up camp late and leave early then no one will complain.
The temple of my year, 34, is Tanemaji. Its set amidst the flooded rice fields and I arrive amidst the incense and a very tuneful henro bus crowd. I buy a manga comic of the life of Kobo Daishi at this temple, I know that trying to read this will be a much more challenging adventure for me than cycling around the island and all its temples.
Temple 35, Kiyotakiji is the toughest climb of the day, but as it only rises 200m its not a big one - just steep, and that's after leaving my bags at the bottom of the climb. This temple is really attractive with a large buddha statue and a wide vista of the countryside you've just climbed out of.
After the sweet descent and a stop at Mos Burger (Japanese burger chain, really tasty and I needed the salt) it was south to one of the most attractive regions of Shikoku for me. There is a small peninsula which you arrive by bridge at the eastern end. The bridge is not so old and you used to need a boat to get the short distance across the water and on to 36, Shoryuji. The peninsula is a ridge about 10km long and about 250m in height but with steep cliffs and amazing views over the ocean. Shoryuji, the temple of the green dragon, is a very attractive with its waterfalls, pagodas and steep steps. In fact the aged henros climbing the steps seem to make more noise going up the steps than when they start chanting at the temple.
Very close to this temple is the Meitoku Gijuku International Boarding School. I saw all the signs in English, welcoming all nationalities etc and as I had been without an English guide book to this point I had the idea that they just might have some guide to the 88 temples in English. Why not, they are next door, it is part of the culture of Shikoku and it would help them learn English? Well that was my plan. Instead, I met the deputy headmaster Junichi Yoshida san, and then his nephew the headmaster of this prestigious school and of course its not every day that an Englishman arrives on the doorstep of such a school in the outer regions of Shikoku so I was dutifully shown around the campus. I was invited to talk briefly with all the best English speaking students and they were very impressive. I am sure this is one of the best schools in Japan, they have famouse baseball and sumo stars as their alumnee, but I was struck at how well behaved the children were and how polite they are to their headmaster. World apart form a school in Manchester, and also, what would happen to me if I turned up inside a school in Manchester in tight lycra clothing? Not worth thinking about.
Anyway, I then find out they have a second campus, which today is having an opening day for the new foreign (mainly Chinese) students and I am to sit through this ceremony in the guest seating area. Again, I am struck by how organised the whole procedure is and how precisely each student jumps up and says "hai" when their name is read out. Also I am aware that I am smelling a bit after the days cycling yet the kind teacher who is translating the events to me (perfect English) is pretending not to notice.
Of course all this time I am thinking "but what about temple 37?" but in reality its much nicer to accept the hospitality of the staff and appreciate their efforts. Also I am reminded that Junichi san is trying to teach me about the word en, 縁 I think thats correct, which means fate or the mysterious force that binds two people together. So on this day "en" had brought me to this amazing corner of the world, I am happy with that.
Back up the hairpin bends and onto the ridge, the remainder of the peninsul is a joy to cycle. Definitely one of the best roads on the island.
Soon stop for ramen at a michi no eki (roadside service area) and pick up a tourist map, and more importantly discover theres a great onsen not far away in Kuroshio, Nakatosa town. Its the perfect end to a great days cycling, the onsen is set on a 100m cliff top above the ocean with views over the bay and lighthouse. Perfect temperature as well so its an onsen to spend some time in, but quite pricey for a nights stay so roll down the hill to a road which has been closed for long enough that a good layer of moss has grown on around the verges - perfect for a soft nights camping.
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