50.0 km; 2hr 14min; (22.4km/h) Temples 13-19
The predicted rain arrived just before midnight, and thankfully my tent is under shelter as the owner of the campsite recommended. Its near typhoon rain, hitting the shelter hard and later the wind picks up to gale force. No way was I going out in that, so its sit around the campsite reading all morning. The rain continued till after midday, and I had given up hope of any cycling this day and was busy packing for a day in the onsen when the rain stopped at 1pm as suddenly as it had started. The best thing about storms like this in Japan is that generally the next few days will be warm and dry, and in fact the great weather lasted the next 12 days.
Kamiyama onsen is still a few hundred meters above sea level, so the ride was all downhill back to temples around Tokushima. Great scenery, clouds clearing away from the mountains and mist rising off the forests, it was a great feeling descending beside the surging rivers.
Temple 13 was crowded and my first experience of the henro bus tours. My greatest fear, this is what could slow the whole pilgrimage right down. Most pilgrims travel by car or bus, but when the bus tours turn up the tour guide takes a sack load of nokyochos/scrolls/clothing to be stamped and signed. Its only at times like this that several monks are enlisted to stamp the seals of the temple, and the only time the peace and tranquility of the temple is more distant.
The road from 17-18 was fantastic - route 203 climbing steadily for 3km over a hill which means you can avoid any heavily developed areas of Tokushima city. More wisteria in bloom, mist really clearing away and the skies becoming bluer by this time. Surprised not to see the sea from the top of this climb and descending the east side, more hills and buildings obscure the not too distant coastline.
Onzanji, Temple 18, was a great setting tooked away up a small hill again in dense forest. Nearly all the temples which are off the flat have many steps leading away from the car/bus parks. I think this is great for the long cycle tourist, it means you get to use other muscles and have many breaks from cycling during the day. The bus henro might not agree - they all tend to be pensioners, so any number of steps leading to temples leaves them out of breath.
At the nokyocho I ask how far it is to temple 19. I worked out it was around 5km away, but the nuns said it was impossible to get there before 5pm (when the temple closes) as it was now 4:40pm. So my first race challenge is on! Across more rice fields, around 38kph and memories of training with Tokyo Cycling Club come flooding back as I keep the pace going and keep looking up for the small red henro signs, or any other signposts pointing the right irection. In fact, Tokushima is so well signposted you really dont need a map. Not so in Kochi ken, but that is later. I could have made a wrong turn at the last section, but my judgment is good and my choice at a junction leads me to the honmon, main gate of the temple.
Just before 5pm I get to the temple grounds and even have to excuse myself from over friendly monk trying his English as I get to the Nokyo to sign my book. Once its done, its a great feeling to relax and fully absorb the setting knowing its the end of the day and its been another great day.
Tatsueji, temple 19 is my first stay at a shukubo (temple lodging). And its a really nice place to stay. Big room, it even has tv, and dinner is vegetarian in a communal area so I meet the others staying at the temple. Only 5 others tonight, 2 are walking and the other 3 travel by car. Also, good to find out that beer and alcohol is not taboo in the shukubo! The cost is 6000yen to stay here, evening meal and breakfast. This temple has an evening service, and Im just too late to attend, so its eat, bathe and relax after a short days cycling, but thats good as there are big hills and a long way to travel the next day.
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