116.3 km; 5hr 21min; (21.7km/h) Temples 37-38
Great sunrise this morning over the bay and the pacific ocean, this was a great camp spot and my gamble with the the falling boulder signs at either end of the road payed off. But in this country, falling boulder signs are not to be taken lightly as you would soon find out on any of the disused roads through the mountains. Earthquakes and landslides are common and my tent wouldn't have put up any resistance against rocks falling from above.
The day starts with a 6km climb up 七子峠 and I am guessing it the best time of day to climb up this section of route 56 in light traffic. Again, the climb up is rewarded with a much more gradual descent and I stop for breakfast at a combini with "henro priority" seating outside, I make the most of this with my coffee and pastries.
Only 2 temples today due to the distances in this area of Kochi prefecture. 37, Iwamotoji is the first and is distinctive for its painted ceiling but its otherwise small and I continue on south. I pass through Yokohama tunnel, and the coast appears at the southern end. Back to the ocean after the morning in the hills!
Happen across a pilgrims rest area at a point I need a rest. Beside the rest area a builders/architects temporary shed is in place, they are constructing a henro path from this point onwards. Its here I spot they have internet access and so I manage to ask for 10mins or so to check email etc. I've not seen any or been looking for any internet cafes on the route so far, but you'll find them for sure in any large town. Comic/internet stores are your best bet, and although some people stay over night in these places in Tokyo, I don't think the average henro would spend the night in one.
Cross the Shimanto river which is supposed to be the most beautiful in Japan, but maybe I'm not looking at its best side. I would guess the best region is further up stream, I'm just crossing near the estuary so it looks like many other rivers in Japan.
Up till now I've not been using my iPod touch for music at all, the scenery and finding the next temple has kept my mind busy. I've only used it as a dictionary and for the maps I'd loaded in before leaving Tokyo. I could get the whole way around Shikoku with my preloaded maps, but I've got a 1:50,000 scale road atlas for back up and its better for the overall picture and planning of the next day. Anyway, as theres a distance between the temples and I fancy some music I put on some Stone Roses and and am blissfully riding along that I miss my intended route along the east coast to Cape Ashizuri. Instead I end up with a choice of turning back, or going along the western road which I'll be returning on the next morning, or head over the top. I go for the latter, and its a bad choice. The road rises 450m over 6km, and at the end of the day this is almost too much for my left knee, it really is about to give up. SO much that it coasts up, carried on by my right leg alone. There's no need for this road at all, the route east or west around the coast are in great condition, and this central route doesn't even have a good view point so it is a final painful climb but again the reward of the descent into Ashizuri misaki almost makes up for the pain of the climb.
The temple at the cape, 38 Kongafukuji has a very tropical feel to it with the plants and landscaped lake in the grounds, plus the many turtle figures around the temple grounds.
I stay overnight at the shukubo here, its 5,800yen for the night plus two meals. Staying at the shukubo is a real opportunity to meet the henro and of course everyone will want to know why the foreigner is cycling around Shikoku. It's very difficult with Japanese who don't know a word of English, more luck if they know a few words, but you would definitely get the most out of the tour knowing more than a few basic phrases. As it is, I still don't know much after being here 2 years, but still they will all say 日本語わ上手ですね。But its a lie.
Set the alarm for 5:40am morning service, breakfast 6am!
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