99.1 km; 4hr 39min; (21.2km/h) Temples 65-75
The overnight rain starts later than the previous night, and so it fails to cease raining until later as well. This means its the first time to cycle in the rain, which is very light, on the meguri so far. I actually enjoy the rain it makes a a change from all that sun and heat, and it seems to bring out the small crabs on the mountain roads! Many of them have or course been crushed under passing vehicles, and they all wave their pincers menacingly at me when I get close, but I doubt they could do much damage to my triple layer panaracer tyres.
Its a good 5km climb up to Sankakuji but not too steep. Theres a good crowd of henro all in good spirits despite the weather, again I think they are enjoying the change in weather conditions. The descent in wet conditions takes the remainder of my brake blocks away, more adjustments are needed here. I pass a few mamachari bike shops on the road, but none of them have replacements. I'll be using my feet to stop soon.
Temple 66 is Unpenji, the floating cloud temple, and its aptly named today. Its the highest temple of the meguri and one of the 3 temples with a convenient ropeway to the summit. You could cycle up the south face, or of course walk up to this temple, but I take the easy route and enjoy the rest in the cable car once again. 2000 yen though, its not cheap, and it's not the most impressive of temples either once you get up there.
Things pick up on the descent though, the weather clears up and its only a few km between temples so it'll be another good haul for the day when we're through.
Most notable is temple 71, Iyadaniji which has 370 steps to get to the hondo. Another temple which is tough for the aging car henro. Hayai desu ne, that's the phrase I hear most of all today as I easily get between the temples faster than the cars and almost as fast as the motorbike henros. Great pace and cruising between the temples, but not rushed at all, and the target is to get to temple 75 before the nokyo close for another day. Comfortably flat, minor hills in this area so no surprise 2km climbs like the end of day 10.
It's always nice to finally accept the end of the days cycling and temple visiting, and relax at the final temple, but this s is even better to difinish at 75, Zentsuji today. Its the birthplace of Kobo Daishi, when he was known as Kukai, and its by far the most impressive and largest temple complex on Shikoku. Many shrines, a huge pagoda, 1500 year old camphor trees adorn the extensive grounds. I am too late to visit the tunnel-path to enlightenment as it closed at 5pm, but I'm sure it would be an experience similar to my visit to Zenkoji in Nagano a few weeks ago.
The shukobo is full here, but that turns out to be fortuitous as I meet another cycle henro who reminds me that the nearby town of Konpira san and the hill Konpira san is a major tourist attraction in the area, and so we head around 7km south towards Kotohira san, aware that the rain clouds are massing behind us.
First have some really tasy udon at the back of an udon factory, then its another great camping spot with a view over the city of Kotohira, beside the oldest surviving Kabuki house in Japan - onsen just 200m away in the hotel, I am really loving this cycle touring in Shikoku now.
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