99.2 km; 5hr 7min; (19.3km/h) Temples 76-83
Konpira san is a great place to stay and well worth the very small detour from the main pilgrimage route. In fact it's not really a detour at all, you would go further than this distance between temples on most days.
More overnight rain, and when it stops I head up the 785 steps to this very impressive shrine. Shame not all the temples on Shikoku are of this scale, but then I suppose it would take much, much longer to get round. Sure, there are lots of steps here, but if you've made it this far on the pilgrimage you've climbed many more steps than this already, you'll find it light work! The steps are lined with souvenir shops, I am here early and can only imagine the scenes down here will be overflowing with people later in the day. You can climb another 260m to get to the top of the mountain, but as its cloudy there won't be a great view today and I head carefully down the sea of steps and rejoin the meguri with the idea of reaching temple 88 tomorrow.
Early temples are on the flat, easy to locate and we hit the gills again with temples 81 & 82. Its really noticable that the signposts to temples are much clearer in Kagawa ken, on a par with Tokushimas helpful henro signs. Initial high ambitions of completing all the temples today quickly evaporates as I hit the lower slopes of Shiromineji. Along with Negoriji, these two temples stand atop a range of hills which jut out of the flat plains in the northern region of Kagawa ken.
The descent here is very dangerous now due to my non existant brake pads, I still haven't found good replacements. I can hardly brake at all, going round hairpins is becoming quite worrying. Clearly something to take on my next tour, pads wear down quickly with the extra weight and wet conditions.
Then amidst the highways of Takamatsu, a golden superstore comes into view with a "Sports Bikes" shop at its front. All 4 pads are down to the metal now, my rims must be severely weakened after the last few days. But with the new pads, its amazing being able to slow down and stop at will, I was stupid to let them wear down so far without replacements.
I finish the day at 83, Ichinomiyaji, which now I do not remember without seeing the photos. Many temples are like that, and this one is my first ride with heavy traffic along busy roads of Takamatsu, the part I do remember.
Head on towards 84, Yashimaji, which again is set on a 300m bump jutting out of the plains. with the intention of camping near the top. At the bottom of the climb I'm told by a kitchen worker from roadside restaurant that bikes aren't allowed up the road. Of course I take his advice, then try to cycle up heedless and reach the tollbooth where I hope to sneak past the sleeping guard. But no such luck. Yes its true, this road to the top of the hill and Yashimaji is car only. I can't work out why, unless they've had too many accidents on the descent from people cycling to fast.
Anyway there's no way to get the bike up this way, so I decide to take the henro footpath to the top, which is not too far from the road but takes a direct route to the summit. Its steep, far too steep to ride in places and a few steps here and there but otherwise its a smooth paved path and some parts are rideable so its possible to get rider, bike and gear to the top with a bit of effort.
I'm rewarded with a great view of the setting sun over the inland sea, and then a night view of Takamatsu (its best view?) and a deserted temple grounds which I can explore at will. Decent camping area, again its under cover so ready for the approaching rain clouds.
I understand now that after the great distances between temples in Kochi ken, when I see the temples all clustered together on the map in Ehime or Kagawa ken, its easy to think "oh this temple is close to that one, easy route to the next one" and soon enough you've worked out its easy and quick to get between a lot of temples, but it all takes time. Best to just plan one temple ahead, then around 3pm take a good look at the next 20km and try to locate a good place to stay for the night.
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